Fermín Núñez’s Guide to Austin

A native of Torreón, Mexico, Chef Fermín Núñez draws on the flavors of his home country to create inventive dishes. After moving to Austin in 2009, he worked at Launderette, La Condesa and Uchiko before opening Suerte and Bar Toti. The acclaimed East Austin restaurant, Suerte, is celebrated for its masa-driven menu and innovative take on Mexican cuisine, and quickly became one of Austin’s most recognized dining destinations. Núñez was named Eater Austin’s Chef of the Year in 2018 and was recently recognized among Food & Wine’s Best Chefs. His work has been featured by Food Network, Netflix’s “The Taco Chronicles,” The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times and Texas Monthly.

For TRIBEZA’s Curators series, Fermín Núñez shares his favorite places and hidden gems around Austin.

How long have you lived in Austin, and what brought you here?

I first got to Austin around 2009, after living in San Antonio and spending some time in Europe.

When I ran out of money, I was living with my parents in San Antonio and looking for jobs on Craigslist. The most exciting thing that was happening in downtown Austin at the time was that La Condesa was opening for lunch, so they were looking for cooks. I sent one of the cockiest emails of my career to the chef, insisting I was exactly who they needed in the kitchen because I was Mexican, and they were serving Mexican food. Prior to that, I had no experience cooking Mexican food at all.

The next day, I drove to Austin for an interview, and within a week I got the job and was living in my sister’s studio apartment on an air mattress in her living room.

What do you love about Austin?

I love the people. I love the weather. The summers here are so exciting. Until I traveled outside of Austin, I hadn’t realized how special the community was. As a chef, you get to see a lot of different kitchens and a lot of different communities. People would always come up to me and tell me how special the community in Austin is. I see that now that I’ve traveled. 

Whenever somebody needs something, the community always comes together for each other. I don’t think I’ve seen that anywhere else. Austin is a special place where the community is there to support each other in times of crisis, and is also there to support you with your dreams.

For example, Ramen Del Barrio was created by somebody that wanted to make ramen, but also was inspired by Mexican culture. It’s turned into a very successful dream, right? I don’t think that you can do that in many other cities. I think that’s what really makes Austin special. You can really make your dreams happen.

What’s your perfect day in Austin — from morning to night?

If I’m not having to think about work, the perfect day starts by waking up and going to one of my favorite places ever, Joe’s Bakery. That is one of my favorite places to go and have breakfast, and they have my favorite flour tortillas. My favorite thing to get is carne asada. It tastes like home.

I’m not a huge fan of the outdoors, but I do love catching a baseball game at The Long Time. It’s a very classic, awesome thing to enjoy. After that, maybe catch a show at a place to go see great music, such as C-Boy’s. Those are some of some of my favorite places to go to where you are reminded that Austin’s still got it. 

Where do you take out-of-towners to show them the “real” Austin?

We just celebrated seven years of Suerte. There were a lot of different chefs who visited from out of town, and I either took them straight to Joe’s Bakery or to Épicerie. 

Épicerie has one of my favorite sandwiches in the city—the fried shrimp po’boy. I also took everyone into town the first night. I rented a pink limo and took them all to C-Boy’s. I thought that was the most awesome experience I could show them. We had people visiting from various parts of the U.S. and Mexico, and they were all blown away by what Austin was all about. C-Boy’s, I think, is one of the most iconic places that you can show anybody.

Are there any lesser-known Austin gems you’re willing to share?

One of the places I usually don’t tell people about is La Cocina de Consuelo. It’s been open for a long time, and it’s on Burnet Road. It’s one of my favorite go-to spots. I always get the crispy tacos there because it’s very different from what I cook at the restaurant.

What do you hope never changes about Austin, even as the city grows?

I never want the core of Austin to change, and that core is the people. Everything I’ve talked about comes back to the community. I always think we can complain about the things that are changing in Austin, or we can just be a part of what makes it great. 

I think it means supporting what we believe in. I think those are the things that make Austin what it is. Supporting what people believe in from a place of heart and care. I think that’s what has kept Austin great for so long. 

As a Mexican, we have a saying: we’re so stubborn—and so fearless—that we are born wherever we want. I think Austinites have that same spirit. You don’t have to be born here to belong here. When you’ve been here for long enough, you become an Austinite and guard the city with such regard.

Núñez’s Austin Favorites

Favorite taco: The one I’m eating

Favorite music venue: C-Boy’s

Favorite art gallery: Martha’s Gallery

Favorite BBQ: LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue and Franklin Barbecue 

Favorite spot for date night: Every Thursday night I have date night with my lady. So we have long rotations. Birdie’s is one that we always save for a special night.

Favorite coffee shop: Fleet Coffee

Favorite place to unwind: At home

Favorite festival or annual event: Hot Luck Live Food & Music

Favorite nonprofit: The Mike and Sherry Project