First Look: Fonda San Miguel’s Next Culinary Chapter Includes a New Austin Cafe

By now, Fonda San Miguel has more than earned its reputation as an impeccable purveyor of traditional interior Mexican cuisine, securing glowing reviews from a broad swathe of food lovers. Even Elon Musk, the controversial tech titan, called the restaurant his favorite for Mexican food in a 2022 interview with The Financial Times. “Enough about Elon Musk,” said Fonda owner Tom Gilliland, adamant about giving every patron the respect of privacy. There was also the late British food writer Diana Kennedy, a once ardent and devoted presence at Fonda San Miguel, who had strong opinions on how to keep the menu as authentic as possible. For example, chips and salsa at the table would be Tex-Mex, not Mexican, so Kennedy was not a fan. Gilliland admired Kennedy and her valuable guidance, he told us in one of many asides about the long history he’s lived as an apostle of Mexican food.

A respectable collection of lists, too, praises the beauty of Fonda San Miguel’s hacienda-style dining room, alongside the immense depth of flavor in the many meals prepared according to traditions passed down by generations of home cooks. Founding Chef Miguel Ravago, inspired by his grandmother’s cooking, helped bring those flavors to life for decades before he passed away in 2017. Though he’s physically absent, Gilliland holds that Ravago remains an important presence. Beneath Ravago’s portrait in the Fonda San Miguel dining room, Gilliland said he can still hear him speak. “That’s why I have my coffee here,” he said. Gilliland can hear Diana Kennedy too, he told us, and carries those conversations, formed from the memories of the two dear friends he knew so well for so long, into the future.

As Fonda San Miguel nears its golden anniversary — turning 50 in 2025 — Gilliland plans to open a new restaurant next door.

Bridging tradition and modernity

“The challenge is not to throw the baby out with the bath water,” explained Gilliland, referring to ensuring his long-time loyal patrons feel as welcome as the younger people walking through the doors at Fonda San Miguel. In a way, the new restaurant will be the bridge from tradition to modernity. To build it, he’s brought in Miró Rivera Architects, one of the most critically acclaimed firms in Austin.

As a patron of the arts, Gilliland proudly showcases his own art collection inside Fonda San Miguel, filling it almost to overflow. In a way, it was art that spurred him to create a new restaurant. For the better part of two decades, he owned the land next to Fonda San Miguel, mining only its parking lot for patron use. That changed when Miró Rivera Architects expressed interest in transforming the lot’s defunct washateria. With the renowned firm on board, a coup for Gilliland, he decided the time was right to transform the unused grounds. He’d previously imagined opening an art gallery, and then a late night bar instead, but the world class firm stepped in when the vision of a new restaurant was taking root.

Miró Rivera Architecture & Tzintzuntzan

Led by Miguel Rivera and Juan Miró, Miró Rivera’s designers focus on contemporary buildings that honor the essence of their purpose, while thoughtfully and carefully shaping space with an eye for aesthetic detail. Striking designs include structures with footprints as humble as The Lady Bird Lake Hike and Bike Trail bathrooms, for which they won multiple design awards, and as imposing as Circuit of the Americas’ observation tower, main grandstand and amphitheater.

Currently, the architects are adding onto Austin’s Mexican American Cultural Center, completing Teodoro González de León’s original vision. Other existing projects include the conversion of a former East Austin church into another cultural center, with inspirations from sacred indigenous kivas incorporated. Juan Miró’s efforts to help ban windowless bedrooms have also made headlines recently, underscoring his people-first approach to architecture. As a center of human interaction, Miro’s work adds meaning to attractive buildings.

Miró Rivera’s vision for Tzintzuntzan

“A memorable space that is connected to a communal activity is one of the best things that humans can do because it’s where we feel connection,” said Miró. “People need those spaces to come together,”

Miró Rivera will design a distinct courtyard and dining room with the look of a modern Mexican restaurant next to Fonda San Miguel. To be called Tzintzuntzan, which is pronounced zin-zoon-zahn and means “place of the hummingbirds,” the restaurant will only be open for breakfast and lunch, complementing the dinner-only service next door.

Miró noted that “a sense of porosity and permeability” should arise from Tzintzuntzan’s open-air courtyard. The team plans for the space to “convey timelessness” and connection with Mexico through “a country of courtyards,” explained Miró. Tezontle, a Mexican volcanic stone, will be used throughout Tzintzuntzan, and sculptures, some chosen by Gilliland on a trip to London’s Chelsea Flower Show, will bedeck the grounds. Fountains in slate and metal will add an element of water to the courtyards, while harkening to the chinampas of Central Mexico. Other earthy sculptural adornments may include carved molcajetes sourced by Gilliland in Mexico.

Art of Interior Mexican Cooking

Expect “some familiar items, but a lot of new things that haven’t been really introduced or seen in Austin yet,” shared Gilliland regarding Tzintzuntzan. He added that it will remain “absolutely authentic” and use the highest quality ingredients.

Chef Natalie Gazaui, formerly of Bacalar and Comedor, will lead the kitchen at Tzintzuntzan. A one-time intern for Fonda San Miguel, Gazaui is the restaurant’s current Executive Pastry Chef. For the new destination, Gazaui will create a panaderia and unique ice cream menu in addition to offering savory interior Mexican entrees. Having traveled to Merida, Yucatan and Mexico City on R&D trips for the endeavor, Gazaui has inspiration to spare, and Gilliland sings her praises.

Currently slated to open in early 2025, Tzintzuntzan hopes to thrill new eaters with tradition. As a further celebration of their 50 year anniversary, Gilliland shared that a new cookbook is in the works. Fonda San Miguel has published two books previously, including 30th and 40th anniversary books. This latest will include recipes developed and served at the restaurant since the restaurant’s 40th anniversary, with entries from Gazaui included.

“It’s going to be pretty spectacular,” said Gilliland, as he looks forward to the next 50 years as intensely as he remembers the previous.

Enjoy a special preview brunch event surrounding the upcoming 50th Anniversary on September 15 at Fiestas Patrias which also serves as the kick-off of the beginning of Mexican Independence Day and the start of Hispanic Heritage Month. Tickets are on sale now, and availability is limited for this one-of-a-kind event culinary experience.