TRIBEZA’s Guide to Marfa
About 150 years ago, a little town was established as nothing more than a railway water stop and freight headquarters out in West Texas. At that time, Marfa was a land of dry streambeds, miles of flat, cracking plains, low mountain ranges and mysterious twinkling lights in the distance.
It still is today.
This rugged West Texas backdrop is the reason Marfa has gone from railway stop to movie set to the famed tourist destination it is today.
Most visitors already know about the mysterious Marfa Lights, the nearby McDonald Observatory, and the Judd Foundation. (Each one reason enough alone to make the journey to West Texas.) So here we’ll focus on the “in-between” places– where to eat, drink, shop and stay when not out exploring the art or dessert.
Where to Eat and Drink
Cochineal
107 W. San Antonio St.
If Marfa was Manhattan, Cochineal would be an upscale restaurant on the Upper East Side. Their Chef’s Dinner Menu changes by the week and is inspired by seasonal ingredients like local mushrooms, wild boar, heirloom tomato gazpacho and a weekly changing wine and cocktail pairing menu.
Bordo Marfa
1210 W. San Antonio St.
Bordo is an authentic Italian deli located right in the heart of Marfa. They make fresh pastas, seasonal gelato, and most famously, delicious sandwiches on wood-fired bread. Like many businesses in Marfa, their hours are unique: they’re open for lunch Friday, Saturday and Sunday, and offer a pizza and pasta dinner service from 6 to 9 p.m. on Thursdays.
The Sentinel Marfa
209 W. El Paso St.
Another theme you’ll often see in Marfa is businesses that are “something + somethings.” Coffee + laundromat; Restaurant + shop. The Sentinel is a coffee shop, restaurant, bar and event venue that supports local independent journalism in Marfa. (The Big Bend Sentinel is their local paper.) This everything space has a large indoor area with picnic style seating, couches for lounging and a nice outdoor area in the back.
LaVenture at Hotel Saint George
105 S. Highland Ave.
LaVenture is the place to go for a nice dinner out in Marfa. Located inside the Hotel Saint George, LaVenture offers nightly dinner and bar service all day. Some fan favorites include mushroom ravioli, parmesan truffle fries, black truffle pizza and the flourless chocolate cake.
Planet Marfa
200 S. Abbot St.
This quirky little outdoor bar in Marfa serves up liquor, beer, wine and several non-alcoholic drinks. They also have a menu of bar snacks and have regular events like karaoke nights and live music. Because it’s an outdoor space, hours are subject to change due to weather, so folks can stay in the loop on Instagram.
Where to Shop
Raba Marfa
120 Highland St.
Just across the street from the historic Hotel Paisano is Raba. This little boutique store sells clothes (new and vintage), accessories, home goods and items from local artisans. It’s no kitschy gift shop; the items at this store range from about $20 for a pair of socks to one vintage tee for $430.
The Get Go
208 S. Dean St.
This trendy grocery store has everything from on-the-go snacks to small souvenirs and local products. Visitors might come here to grab some organic snacks to take to Big Bend, but the real draw is the famous “Get Go” tote bag.
El Cosmico Provision Co.
802 S. Highland Ave.
El Cosmico is a hotel– maybe the hotel– in Marfa, and one of the many things we love about it is the hotel’s shop. The Provision Co. sells clothes and accessories from Far West, a design collective created by Liz Lambert (of Austin’s Hotel San Jose) and several other creatives, as well as the famous El Cosmico t-shirt.
Marfa Book Company
300 S. Kelly St.
The Marfa Book Company offers a unique selection of books, many of which are about Marfa. This little shop also organizes tons of events like concerts, films, readings, art exhibitions and performances. Open Wednesday through Saturday.
Cobra Rock
211 S. Dean St.
This shopping list wouldn’t be complete without the mention of Cobra Rock, a handmade boot studio and store right in the heart of Marfa. Let us be frank: Cobra Rock is not cheap. Some of these boots cost over $700, but for those who want to invest in a unique pair of boots, Cobra Rock is the place to go.
Where to Stay
El Cosmico
802 S. Highland Ave.
El Cosmico is a 21-acre hotel and campground, right in the middle of town. Guests can choose from renovated trailers, safari and scout tents, yurts, teepees or even bring their own tent. Keep in mind, some of these options won’t have heating or AC– which are both necessities in Marfa, depending on the time of year.
Hotel Paisano
207 Highland St.
This beautiful Spanish-style hotel put Marfa on the map when it served as the home base for the cast and crew of “Giant,” a 1956 movie famous for being James Dean’s final picture. Some rooms are themed for the movie, like the Elizabeth Taylor or Rock Hudson Suites, and others are simple and understated.
Hotel Saint George
105 S. Highland Ave.
Another historic hotel, the Hotel Saint George was established in 1886, but unlike the Paisano which maintains its classic look, the Saint George has since undergone a major makeover. Today the Hotel Saint George has a modern and clean look, a hot spot pool, hot tub, fitness center, gift shop and the popular LaVenture Restaurant.