Waylon J’s Barbecue Fires Up Central Texas Classics With a Twist in East Austin

Consider the Dinosaur rib, a Thor’s hammer-sized portion of beef rib at Waylon J’s Barbecue, the new outfit next to Salty Sow. Smoked over post oak by pit boss Chad Deen, the mammoth plate hits the table topped with a thick stripe of bright green chimichurri. Waylon J’s partner, Lance Gresak, Deen’s childhood best friend, proposed “the chimi,” as he called it, in brainstorming sessions that created a fantastic Central Texas barbecue menu. The flavors there, like the Bacon rib and Korean pork belly, showcase the pair’s perspectives.

“He was probably 2 1/2 and I was three,” said Gresak, a Burleson, Texas, native who grew up with Deen. “We spent every day together until we were in our early 20s.”

The two don’t reminisce much about the barbecue they grew up with, but a devotion to Central Texas style barbecue came later. Deen went on to spend a decade in oil and gas, surveying sites for wells and pipelines, while Gresak spent nearly 20 years working as a food and beverage director in Austin and Chicago.

After the 2018 death of Pantera drummer Vinnie Paul — known for grilling on tour — Deen felt inspired to pick up barbecue himself. He started small, buying a Weber grill on Craigslist, then moved on to a pellet smoker before building his own custom patio pit. Within months, he was ready for more. “I called the guy back wanting to order a trailer with a smoker, and he was like, ‘What? This quick?’ I said, ‘Yeah, I think so.’” That trailer quickly went into use as Deen began cooking regularly for friends and local events.

Brotherhood of smoke

Word reached Gresak. “My friends would tell me how great the barbecue was, but I never really put much thought into it … ” he said. “Until I tried it, and I was like, ‘These guys are right.’” By then, pit boss Deen had spent years studying the Masterclass by Franklin BBQ’s Aaron Franklin religiously. He’d been smoking meat for seven years, serving food in Midland and Fort Worth. Chuds BBQ pit boss Bradley Robinson later re-inspired Deen as he honed techniques for making Central Texas barbecue that imprinted itself on your memory. “You hope that you can maybe one day be on the level with those guys,” said the former oil and gas man. Convinced, Gresak wanted to partner.

Once reunited, the Burleson boys changed the name of the barbecue trailer from Bury Me In Smoke to Waylon J’s, after Gresak’s son. Gresak then used his connections to Guy & Larry Restaurants owner Guy Foles to put Waylon J’s on the map with one of the most established, respected names in Austin food. “It’s been go-time since then,” said the pit boss. Waylon J’s went from a trailer to a full-time resident with Salty Sow in less than a year once Gresak joined the team. 

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The bacon rib, dino rib and Korean pork belly are among the offerings at Waylon J’s Barbecue. (Photo by Richard Casteel)

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Waylon J’s Classic Chopped sandwich, made with smoked brisket, pickles, onions and classic barbecue sauce on a toasted bun. (Photo by Richard Casteel)

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The CTX sausage with beef, pork, ChudRub seasoning, poblano peppers and pepper jack cheese. (Photo by Richard Casteel)

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Waylon J’s deviled eggs. (Photo by Richard Casteel)

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Waylon J’s frozen old fashioned and margarita. (Photo by Richard Casteel)

Central Texas passport

At the restaurant, Gresak’s global influences pair with Deen’s Central Texas barbecue skills to bring a worldly twist to traditional smoked meats. Among the standouts is the Korean pork belly: chunky cubes slow-smoked for five hours, glazed in a sweet-and-savory sauce and finished with a bright hit of orange zest. The dish even won over restaurateur Larry Foles, who had never been a fan of pork ribs until he tried it.

Not every dish pushes global influences, of course. The menu includes tender prime brisket, classic and spicy sausages, smoked turkey and chopped pork shoulder with crisp bits of cracklin. Sides range from shareable biscuits with maple butter to creamy mac and cheese, pinto beans, street corn and potato salad, staples of a Texas barbecue plate. For dessert, choices include a lemon pie without a crust topped with toasted meringue, a white chocolate banana cream pie and a rich Mississippi mud cake.

Live music is scheduled for every weekend on Salty Sow’s outdoor patio, where Gresak manages the floor, and Deen dashes around from the smoker to the serving station. With a high bar set, we’re eager to see how the two continue to evolve.

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